Note: If you are considering to do this hike, you can read my extensive hiking guide here. The following post is descriptive–it tells quite the story!
Before traveling to Patagonia, my research led me to the Huemul Circuit, a 4 day / 70km trek in El Chalten, Argentina. It was the most beautiful trek in Patagonia, largely unknown, and ridiculously difficult.
It’s technically challenging because:
- Half the trail is unmarked
- You travel across a glacier on foot
- You must rent equipment to cross two rivers by zipline
It was also a rare opportunity to see the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields, which sounded super awesome.
In the end, it turned out to be the most amazing experience of my life.
What makes it arguably one of the top 5 treks in the world is that it enables you to see the South Patagonian Ice Fields, the 3rd largest reserve of fresh water in the world behind Antarctica and Greenland.
While you may see glaciers in Patagonia, all these glaciers come from the Ice Field–literally the tip of the iceberg. You usually can’t see the ice fields since they’re hidden by mountain peaks like Fitz Roy and Huemul.
I eventually met an experienced Canadian backpacker who agreed to do it with me. But when we went to the park rangers office at 5 pm one day, we heard some grim news: if we started tomorrow as planned, the wind on the ice fields was forecasted to reach 100km/h, making it virtually suicidal to attempt the hike.
However, if we started today (again, it was 5 pm!!), we could avoid the peak of the wind on the ice fields. We then made the decision to start the hike that same day.
So yes, we actually started the first leg–a 16km trek–at 6:30pm! After frantically buying food and renting gear, we both embarked. Since we were so far down south in the Southern Hemisphere during summer, there was plenty of daylight until 11pm.
We got to the first campsite at Lago Toro before midnight. It was the most serendipitous thing I had ever done in my life.
On Day #2, you have to cross a river, but there’s no bridge. Instead, there’s a Tyrolean traverse (zipline) that you need a carabiner and harness to cross. We had rented the necessary equipment, but we were wary of the traverse. I had watched a few Youtube videos of people going across it. And most people do fine.
But we actually saw a couple accidentally drop one of their bags into the raging river while trying to send it across (the person receiving the bag wasn’t able to grip the bag well b/c she was awkwardly positioned on a steep slope). Thankfully they got it back and eventually made it across.
We opted to take off our socks and ford the river slightly upstream with our shoes instead. The river is fed by a glacier, and MAAAAAN was it COLD! Our feet were freezing at the end, but we got across safely without having to worry about the zipline.
Below is a video of my hiking partner crossing while I record him.
To advance towards the mountain pass, one has to next walk on a glacier. However, there are crevasses throughout, and you have to be careful b/c you don’t want to fall into one out there alone. We carefully navigated it and eventually exited the glacier onto rocky moraine. That was a cool experience (literally and figuratively!).
Check out the type of terrain as you exit the glacier and get back onto the mountain pass trail. Oftentimes there’s not always a marked trail; you just make judgment calls about where to go and also use the GPS on your phone with a downloaded map of the trail from the maps.me app.
Next, we ascended nearly up the mighty mountain pass (almost 1000m vertical elevation gain). It was quite steep, and the terrain was rocky. Keep in mind, you have to carry EVERYTHING with you on this trek (tent, sleeping bag, food; it was about 15kg). As if climbing wasn’t difficult enough without a backpack.
But what made this ascent awesome was that you could see the two titanic legs of the Glacier Tunel as you ascended. It was absolutely epic.
We then arrived at our destination: El Paso del Viento (Windy Pass). HOLY MOTHER OF PEARL, it was ridiculously windy up there: at least 70 km/h!! But what I saw on the other side was nothing short of life changing: the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields, the world’s 3rd largest reserve of fresh water outside Antarctica and Greenland. It was the most awe-inspiring view I’ve ever seen in my life. And I still don’t think pictures can ever do it justice. This is the video I took when I first got up there:
Nature is beautiful, no doubt. But for me, mountains are the most beautiful things among nature’s spectacles: namely, the vast open spaces they display gives one a unique sense of freedom that liberates us from the clutter in our daily lives.
I had never seen anything like a ice field before. It was humbling, and made me realize how small we can be to what planet Earth is. I also found it a very transcendental experience—almost as if the distance between me and the universe was now less than it was before seeing it.
Indeed, getting to Paso del Viento with no one else there, I almost felt like an adventurer exploring until the edge of the world–feeling the thrill of exploring uncharted territory, and sharing the difficulty and reward of exploration. The emotional catharsis was overwhelming, and it made me cultivate a a sort of deeper, spiritual connection to planet Earth–and something even bigger.
Importantly, the awe was enhanced by a unique context because the path up there was filled with a lot of uncertainty. One had cross a treacherous river, traverse the throny glacier, find the ever-changing trail, and climb a massive ascent. The sudden reveal of the mesmerizing view of the ice fields with no one else up there makes it all worth it.
The nature truly feels untapped, exotic, and unfathomable. It would be very different if this was a view you could just drive to, or access through a small hike. It’s some of these challenges that make the rewards so much sweeter.
We then traveled to reach the next campsite: the Paso del Viento Refugio, a shelter built incase the wind gets high. At that campsite, we were later joined by just 5 other people.
The next day would be one of my most memorable, and easily the most difficult day ever of my life. We woke up at 7 am and were the first to leave the campsite. This day, we also didn’t see anyone else on the trail over the next 36km, which made it the most magical experience of my life.
The next part was absolutely unreal. We had to ascend our 2nd mountain pass, Paso Huemul. The trail became too narrow for comfort. And the colossal wind speeds were throwing us off balance. We knew from the rangers that tomorrow was supposed to be 100 km/h tomorrow. But it seemed like we were dealing with far more than 100 km/h now.
Look at this small clip and the narrow trail in the picture below: that was the situation we were confronted with. The forecast had dramatically changed, as we later found out from the park rangers. We needed to ascend fast. Lingering on the mountain wall was not an option.
I was concentrating HARD and bending my knees to maintain balance as we ascended up the mountain because navigation here was critical to avoid getting blown off a cliff. With the narrow trail and colossal winds, one false step could mean falling into the Patagonian Ice Fields. I was speechless.
We eventually reached the pass, Paso Huemul, with one last look at the ice fields. We wouldn’t be back to see it for years, so even with the hostile conditions, we spent a bit of time admiring the views.
The video below shows my friend leaning into the colossal winds from the ice fields:
Looking back, it’s important to realize that this can happen with any hike. The weather changes unexpectedly, and you have to adapt. We didn’t purposefully venture out into those mythic winds, but one always has to respect the nature, be honest with yourself about your limitations, and know when to turn back.
Nothing happened thankfully, but even on simple treks with easy terrain, people have mishaps or slips. It reminded me of an important rule of hiking: to have 100% concentration on every step, no matter how simple the trail. Safety first–
After spending some time trying to find the trail, we ventured into one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done: a 700m vertical descent over 1200m horizontally.
It was an absolutely monstrous decline that took nearly 3 hours. This short clip characterizes what it’s like. Sometimes I had to slide down on my backpack to safely descend.
Other times, I was grabbing onto every tree and branch I could, not giving any consideration to my $5 gloves that were literally being shredded apart in the process. At one point, there’s a part where you have to use a rope put in by the rangers to descend 20m. Wasn’t going down supposed to be fun?
When we finally got to the bottom, we were adjacent to Lago Viedma. Here, there were no other humans for miles, and the nature here was nothing short of idyllic.
We could see the Viedma Glacier in the distance and were humbled by powerful mountains overseeing us. The colors were also so vibrant as we watched hundreds of ice bergs in the lake. I’ve never been so consumed by blissful happiness in my life before.
My friend and I spent 30 minutes relaxing on this glacial-beach. Although we were peacefully living in the present, we knew this would be a magical moment we would treasure the rest of our lives because of how isolated and stunning it was.
Above, you can see a candid moment where a massive wind gust discovers us while we’re enjoying the beach, and we take cover underneath our jackets.
At times, you want the presence of other humans as a safeguard. But in that moment, seeing no trace of other humans made us feel like we were exploring that magical region for the first time. Mentally, I convinced myself that we could have been there hundreds or thousands of years ago, and I wouldn’t have been able to tell 😉
This was a video I took while on the beach where I comment on the hostile winds.
At this point, we had hiked 18 km (11 miles) or so (and those were 18 HARD km). I had no idea about the distance, but if you had told me we had another 18km to go, I would have been taken aback (we did Days 3+4 in one day).
We trekked through some incredible scenery; the meadows and plants were so vibrant since it was summer.
When we got to the second Tyrolian zipline crossing, the pulley was broken.
We then had to go downstream and ford it by foot AGAIN. Only this time, the water level was deeper since more ice had melted later in the day, and we had to cross 3 separate parts of the rivers. It was almost 8 pm. And this was after 34km (20 miles).
At this point, I reflected on the types of sacrifices and ordeals one has to sometimes go through in order to have life-defining experiences. Was it worth it? Absolutely, but in that moment, shivering and recovering after fording the massive, ice-cold river by foot, the comfort of a hostel or my home seemed so far away. How did I end up here?
After 9 pm, we got to the boat terminal. This was the beginning of the end–our way back to civilization. We had been hiking 14 consecutive hours. It was time to go home.
When we got there, we saw an Austrian couple parked there with their campervan, preparing to spend the night there before the morning boat cruise.
After hiking 36 km, it was too late for us to hike back 10km to town. So we were going to improvise and spend our night camped next to the boat terminal.
Though, the couple saw how tired we looked, and were actually very gracious to drive us 10 km back to town. I remember telling them they were like guardian angels. Normally everyone leaves the terminal by 3-4 pm. This was a Godsend that we needed.
Getting back to my hostel at 10 pm, I remember getting asked by some curious backpackers where I had been. I looked like I was in a daze of sorts–still in awe of the most amazing and beautiful experience of my life. But also having never ventured outside my comfort zone like that before.
But looking back, I see that you learn to accept some risk on the journey, and also embrace a healthy level of uncertainty that is important in an increasingly predictable world where most of our actions are calculated.
It was also a defining moment in taking leaps of faith and embracing where an adventurous spirit takes you. For some, it’s just another fun and challenging hike, just like it would be for me doing it a 2nd time. But the first time was truly uniqu.
To quote Yvon Chouinard:
“Real adventure is best defined as a journey from which you may not come back alive, and certainly not as the same person”
I encourage anyone to do the hike if you’re physically fit, find the right person to go with, and have a craving to explore the best that planet Earth has to offer 🙂
Note: And if you plan on doing this hike, you can read my Huemul Circuit hiking Guide here
Note: My post uses a combination of my own pictures as well as pictures from other travelers/blog posts. Sometimes I wasn’t always able to take pictures when it wasn’t practical (and still want to communicate the story and scenery). Other times their pics were better quality and convey the beauty better (I just had a Samsung smartphone). Credit for select photos goes to: Backpacker Steve, FromCanyonstoClouds, 2driftingcoconuts, hello-mountains, and crazyguyonabike.